First Wave

Happy August.

Had no idea what was in store today when I awoke. I didn't feel like doing anything other than laying in bed. Wasn't hungry, didn't want to do my daily stretches, no desire to exercise. What to do...

Lazily washed up and made my way into the kitchen and checked in with my phenomenal hosts. T was headed to the beach to surf, I said I'd come along and check out the beach. My beach bag was packed and I brought a couple of extra books to read, but I didn't have much interest, still in my fog.

Discovered a new route to the beach and we were en route to La Jolla shores, a bit north of La Jolla Cove. A new beach, this was a great development. Before we left I realized I should have brought my camera, because I was seeing The T Man in action, he loves to surf. My cell phone camera would have to do.

T had packed his board and donned his wet suit and went straight out into blue. I laid down my mat and applied sunblock.

Now today was something special. It was beautiful out. July now in the rearview mirror, the temperature climbed a few degrees into the mid-70s. The sun was strong. The sky was blue, and the water was almost emerald green as it stretched towards the shore. Finally, it felt like summer.

This was largely a surfing beach, with mainly families occupying the swimming areas. We were alongside Scripps Pier, at the home of the world famous oceanography institute. I daydreamed about owning one of the perfectly perched houses along the shore. Certainly they're expensive, but they weren't opulent monstrosities. Instead, they were rather modest in size but with some of the coolest windows going to maximize the view.

I got a kick out of watching Tom ride the waves. Had no interest in reading so I walked along the beach almost from end to end. I waded into the water and submerged. There were fish right at my feet, big fish, and they paid me no mind, just hanging out and content to share the ocean. The waves curled and rose in currents, approaching 2-3 feet at times. I walked back to where we had set up shop on the beach, but T was still hanging 10 and I didn't feel like sitting around so I pressed on to the pier. Saw so many different generations enjoying the beach. Fathers and daughters, grandsons and grandmothers, couples with their children, friends out to enjoy themselves. And then me, still the invisible visitor from a faraway place. But this beach was very special, the closest West Coast connection I've felt to my beloved Crosby Beach on Cape Cod where my grandparents offered the gift of Cape Cod Bay to all of their friends and family.

I arrived back at our spot on the shore as Tom was heading in from the waves. He pointed out at me and told me to get out there. Completely befuddled, I went out to meet him. He wanted me to try it. Now, Tom and I have had longstanding (three years) appointment for a surfing lesson, but I never thought that today was the day. I guess the years of anticipation overrode my lethargy and had me ready to go.

We walked up to the sand and he gave me a few pointers. Then walked out with me and continued to give me guidance. I was told to simply try to get comfortable on the board, don't bother trying to get up yet, that will come in time. I began to paddle out and direct myself over the waves, getting in position to ride them in. Every part of my body was working non-stop. At times I thought I was comfortable I found myself tipping one way or the other and, it's true what they say, surfing is all about balance. Balance! From the shore, I imagine I looked like I was wrestling with the board, because I'd get rise up to lay down, then topple over and under the water. But even being about 70 feet from the shore, you could still stand up, the water was still just above waist deep. This was very re-assuring.

Figuring in I looked like a fish on dry land waisting my buddy's time, I went to head in, happy for the opportunity. But without saying much, he encouraged me to go out and get comfortable, try to sit on the board and that it was all a game of waiting. Patience.

Strengthened, heartened, excited, I turned back out into the blue with the board under my arm and chopped through the waves. I laid down and paddled out over the waves, passing the other surfers, who were of all different levels. I tried to watch them a bit and process the information to my body. Soon enough, I was sitting on the board (much harder than it looks!). Suddenly I could emerge from the water and lay down or sit on the board and position myself quickly enough to not topple over. This was cool! The brilliant sun was reflecting off the crests of the waves, the water was warm and clear, the fish were at peace, I was waiting.

Pointing myself toward land, i tilted my head to the left and used my ear and peripheral vision to sense the coming wave. I began to paddle forward. Before I knew it, the wave rose under the board and carried me on its journey to the shore. We travelled 30 or more feet in about 3 seconds, and it was absolutely one of the most exhilarating sensations I've ever felt. What a rush! Sure I was just lying down on top of the board, but I was riding the wave, buoyed by Mother Nature. This was like sailing the small boats of my youth but more direct. No intervention of rudder, tiller, wind, and sail, just a fiberglass board between you and the blue. Fucking awesome.

I staid out a bit longer and kept practicing sitting and laying on the board, paddling, looking to catch another wave, observing the other surfers. I felt a few boosts from the tide but never caught another wave. No matter, I was still soaring from the first one. I came in soon enough and met T's approving smile with my double wide Mad Magazine grin. A whole new world opened up to me today. I'm going to keep learning and one day I'll be riding waves with ease, just like The T Man.

What a gift from my friend. Today was a good day. Surfing rules.


'you take your car to work, i'll take my board' --Weezer