Woke up this morning and was quickly en route to La Jolla Shores with Tom & Jamie. It was a truly spectacular day. The beach was a bit less crowded than last week but had a wider range of people.
The T Man sent me back out on the board, and today I easily caught 6 waves. Made it half way up for two, and found it much more comfortable to sit on the board, and lay on the board. The waves started rising pretty quickly, and consequently a lot more surfers made it into the water. It was so much fun. Last week I asked Tom when I'm supposed to get up on the board, he replied, "you'll know." Today I understood what he meant. Suddenly I felt levitated by a wave and knew that was the moment to spring up. Though I couldn't do that yet, I was exhilarated about being up so high and moving so far so quickly. Truly a sensational feeling.
But with the waves rising higher and higher, and the emergence of a skilled surfers, including a gorgeous and beautifully adept surfer girl, it was time for the novice to head in.
Later I walked through PB in search of food. I stopped into the bar where I'd met the Olympian and the Australian. The security guard checked my id and then asked me, "What are you doing for your birthday." I told him I had no idea, but mentioned that Jimmy Cliff was playing that night at Del Mar, and BB King & Buddy Guy were playing a show at another venue. He was a big blues fan and was excited to hear about the latter show. The whole time, his considerate question filled me with warmth. I didn't feel invisible today.
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